1976-1980s The River That Missed the Boat Part 2



I'm writing this in three parts although, if memory serves, which it usually doesn't, the journey took at least four separate day to complete. Part 2 covers the journey from Enfield to Stewiacke.

To make blog writing easier I'm relying almost entirely on memory, no poring over journals, maps or photo albums. This sacrifices a little accuracy of course but it doesn't really detract from the stories and ......... well ....... what's wrong with a bit of laziness?


The Enfield - Stewiacke section was largely boring stuff; endless meandering river between fields, many of them poulated with cows or corn.


Enfield, just below the roadbridge carrying the Route 2 was the point we'd 'taken-out' at the end of Part 1 and of course this is where we 'put-in' again. A little way down was McClean's Brook which drained much of the land below the airport. We paddled a little way up it once and found turtles.

But ...... off downstream. Long ago there had been locks along this section I think, but no sign of them seems to exist today. Along "behind" Enfield but the town is virtually invisible from the river.

Elmsdale next. Again river and village seem to ignore each other. As you leave Elmsdale the Nine Mile River joins from the left. A little way up the Nine Mile the railway crosses it. That steel bridge is said to be the oldest railway bridge in Nova Scotia.

Next Lantz and Shaw's big brickworks to the left.

By now shoulders would be aching and backsides getting numb. No use of the sail along the river with its meandering course and sheltering banks. Cows, black and white were a common sight. They would stare down curiously at us. Travellers on the River were a rare sight I imagine. We never saw another boat on any of our trips. Only "mad dogs and Englishmen" seem to do this sort of thing.


Although a short description, this was a long slog on a hot day especially for the boys who came along with varying levels of enthusiasm I suspect - but come they did!


From Lantz to Milford was a long haul and usually, I think, Milford would be our next take-out point. The gypsum mine at Dutch Settlement was served by a road/railway bridge and just below this point the river became tidal. The water would change from dark and clear to muddy red. The valley of the Shubenacadie is 'all' red clay and the tidal river carries this clay all the time. must be a foggy world for fish.

Finally the road bridge between Milford and "Vinegar Hill" would come into sight and hopefully our car would be waiting.


The following 'days off'', the journey would continue. Tidal now, the Shuby would start widening. Meandering with numerous sand (clay really) bars. This section was planned to be done with the tide out, leaving a shallow river, flowing towards the Bay of Fundy to the north.


The town of Shubenacadie was next. A long paddle. Flowing in from the right before Shuby was the Gays River, soon after that, the little St. Andrews River. By then the Shubencadie had become a "real" river. Three bridges marked the town. The old road bridge (since lifted out leaving just the two piers), the 'new' Route 2 road bridge and the railway bridge, all in quick succession.


Now the long paddle to Stewiacke. The pig farm just past Shuby would sometimes "spill" effluant into the river. A dark brown slick on the surface of the water and a smell that beggars description were the result. The slick also covered the side of the canoe. And our legs if, as so often happened, we had to get out and backtrack when we went up a "wrong lead" between the 'sand' bars.

The river was by now wide and, of course, meandering so progress seemed slow but this is a lovely section of the river. The 'new' Route 102, a four-lane highway, crosses the river at one point, a reminder of how much things change over a relatively few years.

Then, Stewiacke looms. The Stewiacke River, no small flow itself, joins here and we would paddle a short way up for our pick up. As always, the car would be waiting and we'd haul out and load up.

See Part 3 for the exciting conclusion.